New England Coast

October 2011
New England Fall Colours reconnaissance trip

The last five days have been travelling along the coast from Rhode Island to Cape Cod and then up to Maine, and the scenery is ever-changing and beautiful. It was the most fabulous weather to drive this coastline and I took the back roads from Falmouth to Chatham, along the south shore of Cape Cod, along the beach, then inland past the weather-board and cedar-shingle cottages and houses that dot this area. The beach-house look is perfected here, with washed tones of greys, blues and whites, and it all just looks too idyllic. It’s the end of the season and most people have gone home, so the towns and villages have that pleasant feeling of being their ‘secret season’ – without the crowds, the hot weather and chaos.

Chatham is one of the prettiest villages on the Cape with a lovely feel to it. The main street is lined with little craft shops, galleries, boutiques and the occasional tavern. The hotel I have chosen is just tucked down a side street, only 200m from the centre of the village. It’s a small inn with the main house and five further houses. Each house has four or five rooms, and they’re tucked away in little gardens. It means there are no long hotel corridors or vast parking lots – just a cosy collections of cottages. It’s an ideal base for discovering Chatham. After a short drive along the local shoreline, I spent the evening wandering along the main street, and enjoying a chat with the hotel manager at the bar, being regaled with stories of whale watching and the carnival atmosphere at Provincetown in the far tip of the Cape.

The following day dawned with a sea fog, which was actually rather nice and atmospheric. I headed up the shore road to P’town in the north. The town is a renowned haunt for the gay community, and is therefore very chic and colourful. There are also whale watching excursions available from the town quay, although they were cancelled due to the fog that day. No matter – this entire coast is good for whale sightings. After a stroll around town (and the odd raised eyebrow at some of the shop displays) I headed south again, hugging the shore where possible. The north shore of Cape Cod is a very pretty drive past the old fishing villages from Brewster to Sandwich.

Leaving the Cape behind I drove to Plymouth, best know for being the landing place of the Plymouth Pilgrims in 1620. Although this is rather open to debate, the site is an important symbol in American history. The Plymouth Rock is marked with a Greek-style portico and there is a very good replica of the Mayflower, the ship they sailed in from England.

It was then easiest to take the Interstate highway into Boston, as no-one wants to get lost driving in a city. The tour will be staying at the most fabulous hotel in the centre of Boston, right next to the waterfront and a five minute walk from the Faneuil Hall and the Freedom Trail. The hotel boasts great underground parking, as well as a pool and spa, and all the little luxuries you could wish for, so I’m sure that those on the tour will enjoy this. I was fortunate to be staying with John & Kim Legelis, who run Blue Routes, Classic Travelling’s counter-part in New England. John & Kim have a wealth of knowledge on the roads of New England and have been invaluable in their help with this tour. Tour participants will have a well-earned day off in Boston, to explore this beautiful and historic city.

The drive north from Boston winds through lovely scenery and quaint villages such as Ipswich and Newburyport, crossing from Massachusetts, into New Hampshire and then into Maine. A wander around Portsmouth is recommended before heading on to the coastal village of Kennebunkport, either of which make an ideal spot for lunch. Finish the day with a drive up to Freeport, one large outlet shopping town and home of LL Bean, and onto the fabulous coastal region of the Boothbays. We’re staying for two nights at a delightful resort on Southport, set in 45 acres of pine forest, right on the water’s edge. There are kayaks or canoes to explore the inlets and skerries and perhaps see the seals bobbing around. On the first night we’re planning a traditional lobster bake in seaweed with steamers – all fresh from the ocean.

With a day off in the Boothbays we are planning a whale watching tour for everyone, although this is weather dependent. The 3.5 hour boat trip virtually always sees whales, such as humpbacks, minke, blue, fin, and northern right whales, as well as porpoises and seals. This is going to be a real treat. Sadly I was not able to make the trip this year as it was rather torrential rain – a real change from the previous shorts and T-shirt weather. However, I drove up the coast to Camden, a really lovely village set around a charming harbour, and then headed down to Pemaquid Point and lighthouse on the return journey. There isn’t a restaurant at Ocean Gate Resort so we ate at two nearby places, both of which were very good. With so much to see and do wonder Maine is known as ‘vacationland’.